Current Trends Makeup - Lesson 1
(Branka Vorkapic doing Rebecca Krassismenou's Makeup)
Health and Safety
1. Make sure all brushes, products and equipment are cleaned properly ready to use on the models skin so as not to spread any contraindications or diseases.
2. Make sure the model isn't allergic to any products that I was using before beginning the look so as not to cause and allergic reaction.
3. Make sure my hands are washed and clean before starting the look.
4. Make sure my hair is away from my face.
5. Make sure I dont have any excessive jewellery on that could catch, cut or scratch my model.
6. Make sure all my products are layed out properly and neatly so as not to cause a hazard.
7. Ensure there is nothing on the floor that can be tripped or fallen over and all bags and coats are away.
8. Make sure I am wearing shoes with a closed toe so as if anything is dropped it doesn't cause damage to the toes.
In lesson one of current trends makeup. Branka showed us how to do a natural dewy look and a slightly heavier dewy look. Rebecca was the model for tutorial in which Branka did each side of the face in one of the 2 looks. First she did the more natural dewy contour on the left side of Rebecca's face and then the heavier look on the right side after.
To start with Branka cleansed Rebecca's face with Bioderma, she then used a little bit of Argan oil over the skin, let it settle and then went in with a moisture to make sure the skin was prepped and ready for the makeup. This adds moisture to any dry bits on the skin and prevents that makeup from going flaky in those areas. She told us that if you have a client with very dry skin you should use a 'heavy duty' moisturizer and for someone with very oily skin you should use a matte moisturizer.
Once Rebecca's skin had been prepped, Branka began mixing up a concealer to match her skin tone using Mac Full Coverage Concealer. She put this on under her eyes and around any red areas on her face. Once the concealer was on, Branka used a fluffy eyeshadow brush to buff out to concealer so there were no harsh lines and it all blended into the skin. Branka told us that the skin on the face is not the same colour all over and that you should adjust the colour of the concealer to match the different tones and colours. Once the concealer was buffed into the skin, Branka used a light reflecting concealer, this could be Touche Eclat, Liz Earle or Number 7 as examples, she used this under the eye as it gives a good lift and reflects the light off the skin to give a good highlighted look.
Once the concealing was done, Branka used Mac Face & Body foundation and mixed C3 which has a yellow undertone and N9 which has a warm pink undertone to match the colour of Rebecca's face. She mixed the two colours together and warmed the up on her hand for about a minute before applying it firstly to the jaw to check the colour. Branka used a foundation brush and went in with small amounts of foundation at a time really buffing it into the skin to give a clean and natural finish.
Branka explained that the look should be very natural and you should be able to see some of the different natural skin tones underneath.
Once the foundation was on, branka added some Mac Strobe Cream to areas that she wanted to highlight and stand out for example, around the eyes and forehead. She then used some Mac Prep & Prime Translucent Powder. She said to really work the powder into your hand first so that there was minimum product on the brush as we didnt want to make the look matte, we just wanted to set it. This was the first look finished.
After this Branka started on the other side of the face, this time rather than concealing first, she put the base foundation onto the Rebecca first. Branka used Mac Full Coverage foundations. She used a spatula to scrape some out onto the back of her hand and worked it in warming it up. First she tested the colour on Rebecca's forehead and chin to check if it was a match. Once she was happy with the colour she began patting and buffing it into the face, making sure that it was on evenly, smoothly and there were no lines so it was still natural looking.
After this she did the concealer and used the same concealer as she had made up for the last look. This time Branka didn't need as much as the foundation had covered most of the blemishes. She applied under the eyes and on a few red patches and then once again buffed it in with a fluffy eyeshadow brush until it was completely blended and there were no lines,
When the foundation and concealer was done, the whole look was quite matte. To fix this and make it more dewy, Branka used quite a bit of Mac Strobe Cream and heavily patted it on. This gave a natural dewy look without losing the coverage from the foundation. She said to always use a little bit of the Strobe Cream on the brow bone to add highlight. Once finished again Branka used a small amount of translucent powder to set. To finish to looks and make them naturally bronzed and sunkissed, Branka used Give me sun by Mac and Bourjois Chocolate Brick 52 & 54 to bronze the skin. First she buffed it into her hand to make sure there was no extra product and then used it on the cheek bones and a little on the forehead and jaw line. Branka explained that you should never use bronzer as a contour. Once finished she added very lightly a small amount of illminating bronzer on top. She added a very thin application of Mac Brow Setting Gel and then brushed the eyebrows upwards again to give them a very natural look. She then added a small amount of creme blush and dabbed it with her fingers around the apples of the cheeks and then buffed it in with a brush. With the same creme blush, Branka dabbed with her finger a small amount onto the lips and a very small amount of lip gloss ontop. This finished the looks off.
(Makeup by Branka Vorkapic, Model: Rebecca Krassismenou, Photos by Aimee Topham)
We then went away and recreated one of the looks on each other. My model was Naomi Ward.
List of Products Used :
- Mac Face & Body Foundation in shade - C1 - I used this foundation as it gave a dewy look to my model rather than a matte. It was also very light coverage which helped towards the natural look I wanted to achieve. I found it quite difficult to use the Face & Body and I found the texture extremely liquidy which made me feel like I wasn't adding anything to her face when applying it. Although I feel like once I learn to use it properly it will be a lot better. I also think than when applying to my hand to warm up, I didn't do this enough to get it to the desired consistency.
- Dermacolour Camoflage Palette - Shades D32, D1, D4 and D6 - I used this palette and shades to create a concealer for under my models eyes and any blemishes. I found the product very good and the coverage was perfect. The D32 really counteracted the darkness under her eyes to bring them up and give a flawless finish.
- Ben Nye Loose White Powder - I used this product to set the makeup under my models eyes and slightly on the chin, forehead and nose. I didn't want to use it all over the face as this would matteify the dewy look I was aiming for.
- Mac Brow Gel - I used this product to shape the brows and set them into the desired style I wanted. I didnt add any product to the eyebrows as they were a good shape and colour and I was going for a natural look rather than a heavy look.
- Mac Lipstick - Colour: Pretty Please - I used this lipstick as I thought the colour worked best with Naomi's skin tone and with the look. It added a subtle hint of colour and toned down the natural shades of her lips to a more neutral tone. This worked well with the natural style of the makeup.
- Mac Extra Dimension Bronzer - Shade: Delphic - I used this bronzer just to add a bit of a more tanned and glowing look to the model. I applied it subtly and gently under her cheek bones, around her temples and onto her jawline. This particular bronzer has a shimmer to it which didn't matteify the look and kept it dewy which was very good. I really like this product but unfortunately it was limited edition so therefore I am using it sparingly!
- Mac Stobe Cream - Last but not least for this look, I dabbed in a bit of strobe cream to the brow bone, cheek bone, forehead and nose. This gave a nice shine to the skin and caught the light onto the highlighted areas of the face. I really like the effect strobe cream gives and it is one of my favourite products.
Difficulties
I found using the Mac Face & Body Foundation quite difficult. I didnt like the coverage and felt like it wasnt on the skin once I'd put it on. I didn't like how watery it was and didn't like working with it although I feel like once I learn to use it properly it will be a very good foundation as I have been told. I also found it quite hard keeping the look dewy and not matte. I used as little powder as I could but feel like i should probably have used slightly less especially around the cheeks and chin to keep them looking natural and dewy.
Advantages
I found the look altogether quite easy to do. I was quite happy with the result and like how it photographed especially in natural light. It gave the model a very natural look although with a 'perfect' finish, almost blemish free, which was the aim of the outcome. I like how subtle the blush and lips were and it gave a very light feel to the whole look.
Branka explained that the look should be very natural and you should be able to see some of the different natural skin tones underneath.
Once the foundation was on, branka added some Mac Strobe Cream to areas that she wanted to highlight and stand out for example, around the eyes and forehead. She then used some Mac Prep & Prime Translucent Powder. She said to really work the powder into your hand first so that there was minimum product on the brush as we didnt want to make the look matte, we just wanted to set it. This was the first look finished.
After this Branka started on the other side of the face, this time rather than concealing first, she put the base foundation onto the Rebecca first. Branka used Mac Full Coverage foundations. She used a spatula to scrape some out onto the back of her hand and worked it in warming it up. First she tested the colour on Rebecca's forehead and chin to check if it was a match. Once she was happy with the colour she began patting and buffing it into the face, making sure that it was on evenly, smoothly and there were no lines so it was still natural looking.
After this she did the concealer and used the same concealer as she had made up for the last look. This time Branka didn't need as much as the foundation had covered most of the blemishes. She applied under the eyes and on a few red patches and then once again buffed it in with a fluffy eyeshadow brush until it was completely blended and there were no lines,
When the foundation and concealer was done, the whole look was quite matte. To fix this and make it more dewy, Branka used quite a bit of Mac Strobe Cream and heavily patted it on. This gave a natural dewy look without losing the coverage from the foundation. She said to always use a little bit of the Strobe Cream on the brow bone to add highlight. Once finished again Branka used a small amount of translucent powder to set. To finish to looks and make them naturally bronzed and sunkissed, Branka used Give me sun by Mac and Bourjois Chocolate Brick 52 & 54 to bronze the skin. First she buffed it into her hand to make sure there was no extra product and then used it on the cheek bones and a little on the forehead and jaw line. Branka explained that you should never use bronzer as a contour. Once finished she added very lightly a small amount of illminating bronzer on top. She added a very thin application of Mac Brow Setting Gel and then brushed the eyebrows upwards again to give them a very natural look. She then added a small amount of creme blush and dabbed it with her fingers around the apples of the cheeks and then buffed it in with a brush. With the same creme blush, Branka dabbed with her finger a small amount onto the lips and a very small amount of lip gloss ontop. This finished the looks off.
(Makeup by Branka Vorkapic, Model: Rebecca Krassismenou, Photos by Aimee Topham)
We then went away and recreated one of the looks on each other. My model was Naomi Ward.
List of Products Used :
- Mac Face & Body Foundation in shade - C1 - I used this foundation as it gave a dewy look to my model rather than a matte. It was also very light coverage which helped towards the natural look I wanted to achieve. I found it quite difficult to use the Face & Body and I found the texture extremely liquidy which made me feel like I wasn't adding anything to her face when applying it. Although I feel like once I learn to use it properly it will be a lot better. I also think than when applying to my hand to warm up, I didn't do this enough to get it to the desired consistency.
- Dermacolour Camoflage Palette - Shades D32, D1, D4 and D6 - I used this palette and shades to create a concealer for under my models eyes and any blemishes. I found the product very good and the coverage was perfect. The D32 really counteracted the darkness under her eyes to bring them up and give a flawless finish.
- Ben Nye Loose White Powder - I used this product to set the makeup under my models eyes and slightly on the chin, forehead and nose. I didn't want to use it all over the face as this would matteify the dewy look I was aiming for.
- Mac Brow Gel - I used this product to shape the brows and set them into the desired style I wanted. I didnt add any product to the eyebrows as they were a good shape and colour and I was going for a natural look rather than a heavy look.
- Mac Lipstick - Colour: Pretty Please - I used this lipstick as I thought the colour worked best with Naomi's skin tone and with the look. It added a subtle hint of colour and toned down the natural shades of her lips to a more neutral tone. This worked well with the natural style of the makeup.
- Mac Extra Dimension Bronzer - Shade: Delphic - I used this bronzer just to add a bit of a more tanned and glowing look to the model. I applied it subtly and gently under her cheek bones, around her temples and onto her jawline. This particular bronzer has a shimmer to it which didn't matteify the look and kept it dewy which was very good. I really like this product but unfortunately it was limited edition so therefore I am using it sparingly!
- Mac Stobe Cream - Last but not least for this look, I dabbed in a bit of strobe cream to the brow bone, cheek bone, forehead and nose. This gave a nice shine to the skin and caught the light onto the highlighted areas of the face. I really like the effect strobe cream gives and it is one of my favourite products.
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( Makeup & Photography; Aimee Topham Model : Naomi Ward)
I found using the Mac Face & Body Foundation quite difficult. I didnt like the coverage and felt like it wasnt on the skin once I'd put it on. I didn't like how watery it was and didn't like working with it although I feel like once I learn to use it properly it will be a very good foundation as I have been told. I also found it quite hard keeping the look dewy and not matte. I used as little powder as I could but feel like i should probably have used slightly less especially around the cheeks and chin to keep them looking natural and dewy.
Advantages
I found the look altogether quite easy to do. I was quite happy with the result and like how it photographed especially in natural light. It gave the model a very natural look although with a 'perfect' finish, almost blemish free, which was the aim of the outcome. I like how subtle the blush and lips were and it gave a very light feel to the whole look.
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