Lesson 1 - Contrasting eye/lip

Contrasting Colours

In our first lesson back to current trends makeup with Branka, we had a combined lesson with the other group to go over the project for term 2 and recap on the previous term. Due to this, and the size of the class, we did not have a chance to create the look that, at the end of the lesson, Branka showed us. This look was a contrasted eye with a nude lip. Heather Shotbolt and I decided to meet up to following friday in order for us to recreate the looks on each other.

Firstly, I decided on the colours I was going to be using for the eye, I chose to use my Morphe Palette 35U to do this as it has a wide range of highly pigmented and bright colours which would work perfectly for this look. I decided on a hot pink shade and green. I thought that although these colours contrasted with each other, they also complemented each other quite nicely incorporating both warm and cool tones.
I applied the eyeshadow first, using a lighter pink in the inner corner to give depth working my way into a hot pink and then eventually smoking out the socket with a charcoal grey colour. I didnt want to go too harsh with black but knew a brown would not work with this look. I then used to green to create a liner on the botton lash line, using it from the inner corner to the middle and then adding a darker khaki green to the outer corner, once again to add depth to the look rather than using block colours. Once i was happy with the shape of the shadow and how it was blended I then used Illamasqua Black Gel Liner to create a small winged liner on the upper lash line. I applied a small amount of mascara to finish the eyes.
Once i was happy i moved onto the base. I used Mac Prep and Prime all over the face and allowed this to soak in, this would give a slight glow beneath the foundation and also help to hold the foundation to the skin and stay on for longer. I then went in with Illamasqua skin base foundation in shade and applied all over the face, blending away as i went to create a natural looking skin without any drag lines from the brushes. Using Mac Conceal Palette in Light, i concealed under the eyes and over any blemishes to give a flawless affect to the skin. Once i blended and was happy with the base, i powdered using Ben Nye Loose Powders in White.
Using the Mac Sculpting Powders i applied a natural contour and highlight to Heather in order to draw attention to the natural shapes and shadows of her face. I didn't want to do a harsh contour as i didnt want to draw attention away from the main feature of eyes. Once i was happy with this i then used a dark brown Mac eyeshadow to fill in the eyebrows to their natural shape.
I then used a nude lipstick to finish the look.


I feel the i could have used more powder on this look and have come to realise this is something that i need to remember when doing all makeup. I find that when i take a final photo they are normally to shiny and this is something i am going to remember to do in future. I feel as though the colours i picked worked well together and created quite a summery look and i was happy with how the eyes turned out. I also feel that i could have done a bit better with the concealing and base of this particular look however i do take into the count the poor lighting and work area of which the makeup was created.

Model: Heather Shotbolt   Makeup & Photos: Aimee Topham

Health and Safety

1. Make sure all brushes, products and equipment are cleaned properly ready to use on the models skin so as not to spread any contraindications or diseases. 

2. Make sure the model isn't allergic to any products that I was using before beginning the look so as not to cause and allergic reaction.

3. Make sure my hands are washed and clean before starting the look.

4. Make sure my hair is away from my face.

5. Make sure I dont have any excessive jewellery on that could catch, cut or scratch my model. 

6. Make sure all my products are layed out properly and neatly so as not to cause a hazard. 

7. Ensure there is nothing on the floor that can be tripped or fallen over and all bags and coats are away. 

8. Make sure I am wearing shoes with a closed toe so as if anything is dropped it doesn't cause damage to the toes.

Current Trends - Smokey Eye

Lesson 4 - Smokey Eye 

Unfortunately the day this lesson took place I was unwell and didn't attend. However I have taken notes from Heather Shotbolt's Blog - http://hjsartistry.blogspot.co.uk/, in order to understand the process and recreate the look at home. 

To prep the model, Branka quickly moisturised and added some oil to the dry areas of the skin so that it was ready for the makeup. Once this was done, Branka began working on the eye. This was so that it could be done cleanly without any droppage onto the cheeks once the base had been applied. The first step was to apply Mac Black Track gel eyeliner over the whole eyelid using a flat brush. She didnt take this any higher than the socket line. Once this was done, she used a fluffy brush to blend the Black Track out to ensure that the eye had a 'smokey' effect rather than a black block on her eyelid. Once this was blended nicely and there were no harsh lines, Branka applied some more black track onto the lash line and used Carbon eyeshadow from Mac over the lid, once again only working up to the crease and not over. Next, Branka used Brule eyeshadow from Mac and applied it from the crease up to the brow bone to create a nice transition and blend between colours. She buffed this into the eye with a circular motion to ensure there were no harsh lines and so the blend was nice. She then used Cork eyeshadow by Mac to blend out the line of the black track to give it a softer, smokey appearance. Next she applied Brun eyeshadow from Mac slightly over the black eyeshadow and Cork eyeshadow to blend out between the two tones. This created a graduated colour and tone between them. She then removed any droppage from the face before beginning the base. 

Branka created a colour for the base for her model. She used Mac Full Coverage Foundation. Once the base was applied to the model. Branka created a colour to used as a highlighter. She used Mac Full Coverage foundation in the shade NC15 and applied this to the areas that she wanted to highlight.These were, cheekbones, around the brow, down the nose, chin and jawline. Once this was applied to the skin, Branka created a colour for the medium tone. This was also Mac Full Coverage Foundation in a mixture of shades NC15 and NW25. She applied this to areas that she wanted to neutralize but not quite as dark as a shade you would use to completely contour and shadow. She applied this next to wear she had applied the highlighter on the cheekbone, nose, chin and jawline. Once this was done, Branka then created a colour to use for the shading. She once again used Mac Full Coverage in the shade NW35. This was applied to areas of the face that she wanted to add shade and draw in. These areas are, under the cheekbones, the nose, the temples, and the jawline. Once all this was applied to the face. Branka blended it in to ensure that it was subtle, no harsh lines or brush marks and so the whole look had a natural effect to it rather than blocks of colour. She began buffing in the highlighter and worked her way onto the medium tone and then the dark shades. Once this was done, Branka lightly set the makeup with a translucent powder to ensure that the makeup didnt move around the face. 

Once this was done, Branka brushed the eyebrow upwards and applied Mac Brow Gel to allow the colour to stick to the brow better when shading and colouring in. Once this was done, Branka used Carbon eyeshadow from Mac under the bottom lash line and blended it out. She then applied black mascara to the lashes using a small fan brush to add definition to the eye. 

To create a naturally sunkissed and bronzed look, Branka used Yves Saint Laurent No.2 in areas where light hits your face, so cheekbones, forehead and nose. She also applied Mac Strobe Cream to the areas where she wanted slightly more highlight over the areas that she had used the highlight colour before. 

Once this was done Branka moved onto the lips to finish the look. She used Naked Lip liner from Mac to line the lips so that they were defined and shaped ready for the lipstick. She then filled this with Plum from Mac. She mixed this with some of the foundation colour that was left on her hand so that it created a more natural lip colour rather than a harsh one. To finish, Clear Lip Glass from Mac was added on top. 

This was this looked finished. 

However, Branka then went on the demonstrate how this look could quickly be transformed into a high fashion look. She used vasoline over the eye to create a wet look. This also enhanced the black colour to make it stand out even more. 

I recreated this look at home on model: Hollie Duff,   Makeup & Photo: Aimee Topham

(ALL CREDITS TO HEATHER SHOTBOLT FOR INFORMATION)

Health and Safety

1. Make sure all brushes, products and equipment are cleaned properly ready to use on the models skin so as not to spread any contraindications or diseases. 

2. Make sure the model isn't allergic to any products that I was using before beginning the look so as not to cause and allergic reaction.

3. Make sure my hands are washed and clean before starting the look.

4. Make sure my hair is away from my face.

5. Make sure I dont have any excessive jewellery on that could catch, cut or scratch my model. 

6. Make sure all my products are layed out properly and neatly so as not to cause a hazard. 

7. Ensure there is nothing on the floor that can be tripped or fallen over and all bags and coats are away. 

8. Make sure I am wearing shoes with a closed toe so as if anything is dropped it doesn't cause damage to the toes.

Current Trends Lesson 3 - Grease paints

Full Look with Grease Paints

Current Trends Makeup - Lesson 3

Health and Safety

1. Make sure all brushes, products and equipment are cleaned properly ready to use on the models skin so as not to spread any contraindications or diseases. 

2. Make sure the model isn't allergic to any products that I was using before beginning the look so as not to cause and allergic reaction.

3. Make sure my hands are washed and clean before starting the look.

4. Make sure my hair is away from my face.

5. Make sure I dont have any excessive jewellery on that could catch, cut or scratch my model. 

6. Make sure all my products are layed out properly and neatly so as not to cause a hazard. 

7. Ensure there is nothing on the floor that can be tripped or fallen over and all bags and coats are away. 

8. Make sure I am wearing shoes with a closed toe so as if anything is dropped it doesn't cause damage to the toes.

Full Face with Grease Paints 

For this lesson, Branka wanted to show us how to do a full face using just our grease paint palettes, incase we ever found ourselves at a job needing to do makeup without our full makeup kit. She explained that it shouldnt be used in the place of makeup and only in emergency situations! 

She started by demonstrating how to do this. First she moisturised Heather's (model) face and applied a Lush Sugar Scrub Lip Balm to her lips to make sure the face was ready for the products. After this she began to mix up the colours for heathers base colour. She used Kryolan Greasepaint and mixed up Beige, Mango, Red, Medium Brown, Dark Brown, Yellow White and a touch of blue. She kept mixing between these colours until she found a match for heathers skin tone. She used a foundation brush to apply the her face starting from the middle and working out. She then used a buffing brush to buff out any lines from the foundation brush and to make sure the product was soft and even over Heathers face. She blended into the neck aswell. 

Once she was happy with the base, Branka used red and mauve to make a similar colour to the dermacolour d32 and mixed that with some of the left over base colour. She applied this under the eyes with a flat concealer brush and then once the colours was applied, buffed it out with a medium round fluffy brush. Branka then set the foundation with Translucent Powder. She applied this quite heavy in order for the greasepaint not to move around the face. 

Moving on to highlight and shading, Branka said to split the rest of the base colour on her hand into 2 different lots, She then used red, grey and medium brown greasepaints mixed with one half of the base colour to create a colour for the shading and used a white greasepaint mixed with the other half of the base colour to create a highlight colour. Once these were made. Branka applied highlight first to the forehead, around the eyes, under the cheekbone and on the nose. She then applied the shade colour she had made to the forehead, cheekbone, nose and chin. Once these colours were applied, she used a buffing brush to blend the colours into the base ensuring that it had a natural look, there were no harsh lines and no blocks of colour. She explained not to spread the colour around but to dab it as spreading would cause it to mix with the base colour and not shade and highlight in the areas wanted. Once this was blended and even, Branka used powder to set it again this time a slightly lighter/finer layer. 

Now it was time to create the eyeshadow. Branka used Medium Brown and Beige mixed together and applied it to the socket with a small buffing brush and buffed irt out into the crease. With a smaller, flat brush, Branka applied black (although she said we can use dark brown) to the lash line and then smudged it away so that it wasnt a harsh line. She did this to the top and bottom lash line. Once this was done, she applied a little more black only half way on the top lash line just to layer it up slightly.  She then set the eyes with powder. To finish the eyes off, Branka used a small bit of dark brown, grey and beige and worked into the hand. She then applied a light layer over Heeather's eyebrow and shaped them. She  then set with powder. Lastly, using a small fan brush, Branka applied mascara to the top and bottom lashes. 

Next, Branka moved onto blush and lips. She mixed red, burgundy, yellow and peach together and created a medium pink tone. She buffed this into the cheeks only until the point where there was a wash of colour. She set this with powder. To create the colour for the lips, Branka used the burgundy tone and buffed it into the brush on her hand. She told us to define the lip with the colour without overdoing it or over drawing the lip line.

To finish the whole look, Branka sprayed Heather's face with a Spritz of Mac Fix +.  I then went to repeat this on my model (name).

Advantages 

I found it quite easy to use the greasepaints to create a full look. I found the consistency easy to work with, although very heavy, and felt like it was easy to buff and spread over the face once it was warmed. I am really happy with the outcome of the look and actually found it to be quite natural at the end and worked really well with the models skin. 

Disadvantages

Although i found the greasepaints easy to work with, i wouldn't use it all the time to create look and like Branka said only as an emergency resort. I feel like as the name suggests it was quite greasy and looked quite cakey and heavy at times. I also feel like it wouldnt be brilliant for the skin of the model and it didnt really leave any room for it to breathe. I also think i went slightly too heavy with the eyes and could have used the dark brown, rather than black to create a softer look. I also had an issue with my burgundy greasepaint in the fact that it came out a different colour to everyone elses and i wasnt able to create a pinky tone from it. Therefore, my blush and lips were slightly browner and darker. 

Products used

Mac Fix + - I used this at the end to give a dewy and more natural look to the quite heavy makeup. 

Kryolan Greasepaints Supra Colour Palette - Red, White, Burgundy, Black, Medium Brown, Beige, Yellow, Blue, Peach, Mango - I used this palette to create to whole look. I found it quite a good consistency when warmed up and it buffed and blended really nicely into the skin. 

Mac False Lash Effect Mascara - Covers the lashes well when put on with a fan brush, isnt clumpy and holds really nicely. 

Ben Nye White Powder - I used this to set the face to keep the makeup from moving around especially under the eyes. It works really well and the white powder works the same as a translucent powder as not to add any colour to the skin.