current trends hair lesson 2 - Heated Rollers Brick Set

Heated Rollers/ Brick Set 

Health and Safety

1. Make sure all my equipment and brushes are cleaned properly so as not the spread anything from one client to another. 

2. Make sure that my pin tail comb is safely down or tucked into my palm whilst not being used so as not to accidently stab myself or others.

3. Make sure my hands are washed and clean before starting the look.
4. Make sure my hair is away from my face.
5. Make sure I dont have any excessive jewellery on that could catch, cut or scratch my model.
6. Make sure all my products are layed out properly and neatly so as not to cause a hazard.
7. Ensure there is nothing on the floor that can be tripped or fallen over and all bags and coats are away.
8. Make sure I am wearing shoes with a closed toe so as if anything is dropped it doesn't cause damage to the toes. 

Current Trends Hair Lesson 2 

In our second lesson of Current Trends Hair, Emma showed us how to create a Brick set using heated rollers and then to style it out with volume. She began by demonstrating on a block head. She started by parting it in a middle parting and then sectioning the front of the head from the parting line to the top of the ear. She then used her pin tail comb to make a section of hair for the size of the roller. She explained that the section should never be wider or longer than the size of the roller. She brushed this section out and then spritzed on some setting spray. She then took a large red roller and placed at the end of the hair. She rolled the hair around the roller once and then tucked the ends in with her pin tail comb. She then rolled the hair tightly up to the root and gripped it in place. She then continued to show us how to do the rest of the head.

Once Emma had finished setting her rollers, I went and began on my own block head using the same technique. Once I had done the rollers at the front I moved to the back. I started by making a section to the right of the middle of the head. I rolled this section into a large red roller. I then did one on the left side of this. This would start my brick set. I continued this with the large red rollers in a line all around the top of the head. Once I had done this I went back to the back of the head and underneathe the middle of the first 2 rollers I had put in at the back, I created a section and put another roller in this time a medium blue roller. I continued this in a line around the head underneath the first line. This created the brick set that I wanted. Once I had finished the whole of the head in this style, using the small yellow rollers at the bottom of the head in the nape I left the rollers to cool down as you cannot take the rollers out until completely cool.

Once everyone had their rollers set at were waiting for them to cool, Emma gathered us around her block head to demonstrate how to dress them out. Firstly she showed us how to dress it out in a style that has loose flowing curls and lots of volume on top. She brushed out the hair as she took out the rollers started from the bottom of the head so that they were quite big and puffy and then used her comb and fingers to create waves in them where they were naturally curling from the rollers. She did this all over the head to create a 'Beyonce' type style and once she got the the front of the head and the fringe, she created a wavy fringe with lots of body. Once she had finished showing us this look she then went onto also show us how to dress it out with lots of waves, and showed us how to create the waves using sectioning grips in a 'criss cross' style. Similar to finger waves. She left these on for a while whilst I went back to finish off my look.

By this time my rollers had fully cooled and I began rolling them out. I decided to try and create a loose flowing look however, my rollers came out with quite tight curls so I went for a more volumous curly look. I used the curls to make waves all over the head and then used sectioning clips in the fringe to create a nice wave in a side parting style. I was quite happy with the end result.

Pros 
As always I found that once I had done a couple of rollers and got back into the flow of it, I managed to put them in quite quickly and easily. I found that I was getting better with the section sizes and how much hair that I should put into the rollers. I am also getting much better at keeping my pin tail comb in my hand whilst doing it all. I also feel that every time I put a set of rollers in I am finding it more and more easy to brick set.

Cons 
I am still finding that sometimes I do get the odd fish hook end, however I am noticing this and trying to fix it as and when I can. I am also still having a little trouble the the styling and dressing out. I feel that once again this will come with more and more practice. I definitely need to be more firm and less gentle with the hair so that I am able to control it better. I also feel that I need to have more tension in the hair when I am doing it so that its not loose or messy.

Equipment used:

- Pin Tail Comb - This was used to section the hair to make sure I was adding the right amounts to the rollers.
- Heated Rollers - these were used to add a curl and wave to the hair in order to dress it out in the style that i wanted.
-Grips - These were used to pin the hair into the positions and style that i wanted.
-Setting Spray - This was used on the hair to make sure that they set in the way i wanted once the rollers were put in.
- Paddle Brush - This was used to brush the hair
-Denman Brush - Also used to brush the hair
- Hairspray - Used to set the hair in place once it was styled.

(Pictures to follow)

Current Trend Makeup - LESSON 2 CONTOUR (Highlight and Shade)

Lesson 2 Current Trends Makeup
Contour (Highlight and Shade)

In our second current trends makeup lesson with Branka, she showed us how to do 2 different contour looks. A more natural, dewy contour and the 'Kim Kardashian' look. She demonstrated how
to do both looks on either side of model: Brittany Cason's face.

The first look on the left side of Brittany's face was a more natural and dewy contour look.
Firstly, Branka prepped the skin with oil and moisturiser. She used oil in the areaas that would need extra moisture such as around the nose, between the brows and on the chin. She then went in with Steam Cream moisturiser all over Brittany's face. Branka explained that whilst she was moisturising Brittany's skin, she was looking at the natural colours, shades and undertones in her skin to begin to have an idea of what colours she should be using. She then used Carmex on her lips to make sure that they werent dry or chapped when it came to putting lipstick on. Branka explained that when you have a male client, you should always use matte moisturisers and lip creams as you do not want to give them a dewy effect.
Once Brittany's skin was prepped and moisturised, Branka used Derma Cover in D3, D7 and D32 mixed together to create a concealer. She applied this under Brittany's eyes and on any blemishes or areas that needed colour correcting. She then used a round fluffy brush to buff it out leaving no harsh lines and creating a natural look. Once Branka was happy with this, she used Mac Face and Body Foundation in C1 and worked it into her hand to warm it up before working it in all over the left side of her face. She used circular motions to buff it into the skin and create a flawless yet natural finish.
After this, Branka demonstrated how to create the right tones for highlighting and shading. She used Grease Palettes to create a lighter tone, using a small amount of white and mixing in some of the foundation colour. After she had made the highlighter colour, Branka created the contour colour, she explained that whilst keeping to the natural tones of the skin, you also want to have a slightly grey undertone and this will give the effect of shadowing. She used a small amount of grey, beige, brown, yellow and red and mixed the colours together, adding in when needed until she created the right colour. This should be about 4-5 shades up from the natural skin colour however kept quite cool rather than warm.
Once these colours were created, Branka demonstrated where you should highlight and where you should contour. Every element of the face that you want to bring out and add focus to you highlight, for example, brown bone, under the eyes,  nose and cheeks. Everything you want to take back and add depth to you shade, for example, cheek bones, forehead, jawline and nose.
Starting with the highlighter, add lines to where you want it to be although try to not be to heavy with it, you can always build it up later if you need to. Using the same brush, Branka added shading to the areas she wanted to contour, these areas were:  top of the ear towards the mouth in the shape of an isosceles triangle, between the temple and the hairline (Branka explained that if you could fit 1 finger in the gap you would just highlight, if you could fit 2 fingers you would do highlight and shading and if you could fit 3 fingers you do just shading) and then on the nose. Blending the highlight first, Branka used small strokes and circles as she wanted it to be noticeable but not heavy. Once she was happy with the highlight, she blended upwards to get rid of any excess product or lines.
She then began buffing in the shading using the same techniques. Around the eyes and nose, Branka used a concealer buffing brush instead so that she had more control over where the shading was going and could reach the odd angles and corners. Once she was happy with the end result, Branka used her ring finger to add some strobe cream over the areas that she put the highlighter and buffed and dabbed it in lightly.
To finish the look, Branka brushed the eyebrows up and added a little bit of filling with an eyebrow pencil that was only a slightly darker shade than Brittany's natural brow colour.  She used a little bit of 'Please Me' and 'Twig' blushers to the cheeks and then added a makeup setting spray just to give a lightly more dewy effect.
Branka then moved onto the 'Kim Kardashian' style look on the right side of Brittany's face. She put the same base on as before (see above) and then began mixing up her colours for the highlight and shades. She mixed white greasepaint with a light foundation tone and using a concealer brush she applied the highlight to the areas that she wanted to highlight (around the eyes, down the nose, forehead, cheeks and chin). Branka then created a highlight tone a shade up from the first one and applied that around and slightly above the first application of highlighter. Once this was done Branka created a tone for shading using the darkest foundation NC32. She applied this in areas that she wanted shading (cheekbones, jawline, nose, forehead). Once this was all done, Branka began buffing it in starting with the highlighter and moving down to the darkest shade. She very lightly set it with powder and explained if the finished look was too dark you can lighten it with a powder.
Branka than used the Mac sculpting powder over everywhere that she had already shaded she then went in with 'Emphasize' onto the highlight. To finish the look, Branka used the Mac blush 'Dolly Mix' on the cheeks and applied strobe cream on the areas that were highlighted.

I then went on the recreate the look on Brittany myself.

Pros
I already had experience with highlighting and shading on myself and other clients so I was quite confident when I went in to recreate the look. I was very happy with the colours I chose and mixed up for Brittany's skin tone and I was also very happy with the placement of it.
I found it easy to use the techniques that Branka was showing us and was very confident when applying it. I was also very happy with how it blended.

Cons
I feel like I need to practice more with a heavier contour as I am used to applying quite a natural and light one therefore I feel like I did not get the desired affect for the 'Kim Kardashian' look. This is something I will continue to practice in class and in my spare time at home.

Health and Safety

1. Make sure all brushes, products and equipment are cleaned properly ready to use on the models skin so as not to spread any contraindications or diseases.

2. Make sure the model isn't allergic to any products that I was using before beginning the look so as not to cause and allergic reaction.

3. Make sure my hands are washed and clean before starting the look.

4. Make sure my hair is away from my face.

5. Make sure I dont have any excessive jewellery on that could catch, cut or scratch my model.

6. Make sure all my products are layed out properly and neatly so as not to cause a hazard.

7. Ensure there is nothing on the floor that can be tripped or fallen over and all bags and coats are away.

8. Make sure I am wearing shoes with a closed toe so as if anything is dropped it doesn't cause damage to the toes. 

Products used;
- Mac Face and Body - Shade C1 - I used the Mac Face and Body Foundation as this gives a very natural finish, however the coverage is only light so it needed to be built up to create the desired look i wanted to achieve.

- Dermacolour - Shades D32, D1, D6 and D7 - I used these shades mixed together to blend over blemishes and under the eyes to give a flawless finish.

- Mac Sculpting Powder - I used this to do the highlight and shading. I find it really nice to use a powder to highlight and shade as it gives a very natural finish, it is easily blended and you can build it it up to the amount that you want.

- Kyrolan Supracolour  Pallette -  I used this to create the highlight and shade on the other side of Brittany's face. I found it quite heavy to use and quite thick. I feel like this was a good product to use for the look I was going for but I wouldnt use this as an every day product as it doesnt give a natural finish and can sometimes look cakey.

- Ben Nye Loose White Powder - I used this to set over the makeup I had done, especially under the eyes, to make sure that it stayed where it was and didnt move around the face creating a greasy, sweaty look.

-Mac Strobe Cream - I used this to go over the areas that I had highlighted to draw light to the area and give an even more highlighted look. It also created a natural, dewy finish on my model.

-Mac Brow Gel - I used this to set and shape the models brows as to how i wanted them.

-Mac Fix + Setting Spray - I used this to create a dewy/wet look over my model.

- Mac Blusher - Shade: Dolly Mix - I used the blusher on the cheeks to add a bit of colour and finish the look.

(Photos to follow)

Makeup Artist: Mykie

Mykie

Artist Study 

I have chose to do an artist study on my absolute favourite makeup artists and a huge inspiration to me. I first discovered Mykie on instagram about a year a go and completely fell in love with her unique and creative work and I still religiously follow her and use her work to inspire my own work.

Mykie is a Los Angeles based self-taught makeup artist and vlogger with her youtube channel 'Glam & Gore'. She is known for her very creative and different looks that always contain extreme amounts of detail and talent.

Mykie comes from Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. She started doing makeup at a young age and began as a self taught artist. Once graduated from film school, Mykie moved to California in order to be able to work on film sets. This is where the vlog and instagram account started. To build up her portfolio and keep practicing looks, Mykie began posting images of her work online using the 'hashtag' #100daysofmakeup. This is where she completed 100 different looks on 100 different ways using different themes and styles. From this she began posting videos of her creating the looks and step by step guides onto youtube under her channel 'Glam & Gore', which soon grew to 600,000 people following her. (Update: Mykie now has over 1,000,000 subscribers on youtube) Mykie creates looks from all areas of makeup from extreme horror and special effects, to beauty and glamorous looks - hense 'Glam & Gore'.

Since Mykie gained such a huge following she has been name Nyx Face Awards Beauty Vlogger of the year and become an inspiration to many people all around the world. Not only is she a brilliant makeup artist but through her videos she also shows that she has a very easy to get along with personality which adds to her popularity.

(Photo Credit : Mykie 2015 [instagram])

       (Photo Credits: Mykie 2015 [instagram]        

  

'Mykie consistantly brings us new, exciting, unique and intricate creations that we love and admire here at Illamasqua' - (Illamasqua Beauty Spotlight with Mykie)

"I find it easiest to look for makeup inspiration from other things in my life that I’m passionate about. So a common way for me to get inspired is to watch, listen to, or play my favorite movies, music, or videogames. Sometimes that inspiration is quite literal where I replicate a look as close to the original as I can, and sometimes it’s less obvious- like using the color palette from the cinematography of a film.
The other way I’ve been finding a lot of inspiration lately is to walk around a craft store. I go to Michael’s often and walk up and down the aisles until I find something that inspires me to build a makeup look around. It helps me think of ways to mix beauty makeup with objects not commonly used in makeup like feathers, or wire. I see the feathers and I get inspired to do soft, wispy makeup. I see the wire and I get inspired to do a sharp, intense look." - Mykie (Illamasqua interview unknown date)

I feel that as i continue to grow as a makeup artist i will use Mykies work a lot for help and guidance a long the way.

https://www.youtube.com/user/GlamAndGoreMakeup/featured

https://instagram.com/mykie_/

References

http://www.illamasqua.com/blog/beauty-spotlight-with-mykie_/  - Beauty Spotlight with Mykie, (ANON)

http://www.nyxfaceawards.com/finalist/glamgore - Nyx Face Awards, About Finalist Mykie. (ANON)

https://instagram.com/p/8q02XYJhtK/?taken-by=mykie_  - Picture   Posted on: 22.10.2015

https://instagram.com/p/7eRhS4phrL/?taken-by=mykie_  - Picture - Posted on: 17.09.15

https://instagram.com/p/6uVkYgphrh/?taken-by=mykie_  - Pictures - Posted on: 27.08.2015

https://instagram.com/p/2FP1Z0phkW/?taken-by=mykie_ - Picture - Posted on: 30.04.2015



Current Trends Hair Lesson 1 - Wet Set Curlers

LESSON 1
Current Trends Hair

Health and Safety

1. Make sure all my equipment and brushes are cleaned properly so as not the spread anything from one client to another. 

2. Make sure that my pin tail comb is safely down or tucked into my palm whilst not being used so as not to accidently stab myself or others.

3. Make sure my hands are washed and clean before starting the look.
4. Make sure my hair is away from my face.
5. Make sure I dont have any excessive jewellery on that could catch, cut or scratch my model.
6. Make sure all my products are layed out properly and neatly so as not to cause a hazard.
7. Ensure there is nothing on the floor that can be tripped or fallen over and all bags and coats are away.
8. Make sure I am wearing shoes with a closed toe so as if anything is dropped it doesn't cause damage to the toes. 

Wet Set Rollers   - Brick Set

In lesson 1 of our current trends hair lesson. Emma, our teacher, showed us how to do a wet set and dress out the rollers after. We learnt all about sectioning, putting rollers in, how wet the set should be in order for it to dry in time and all the different techniques that come with these.
Before I started the HND course I had never done anything to do with hair before. I have always had an interest in it but always been extremely bad at it whenever I have tried to teach myself anything so this was definitely going to be a tough lesson for me before I'd even started. Once in the lesson I set up my kit, put my 'wilma' head onto its clamp and laid all my brushes, combs and clips out ready to be used.

Emma gathered us round and began her demonstration. She started by showing us how to part the hair into a middle parting and then showed us the right amount of water to spray on the head before starting. It only needed a little spritz as if it was too wet it would not dry in time.
Once this was done Emma showed us the right amount of hair that each roller section should have. The section should be no more than the length and width of the roller. Then Emma demonstrated how to put a roller in. First she added another spritz of water onto the section of hair she had just taken, she then combed it out and held it with tension at a 90' angle away from the head. She then put the roller onto the end of the hair and wrapped the ends around. She used her comb to tuck the end around the roller to make sure that they were all in so that it didn't create the 'fishhook' affect once the rollers were taken out. Rolling it up the length of the hair, continuously using the comb to tuck in the ends as she went, Emma took the roller right to the top of the hair and then clipped it in place where it
stayed. She then continued to show us how to do that around the whole head of hair in a brick set. This means that the rollers arent one ontop of the other, they are staggered so that when it is dressed out there arent defined lines from where the rollers were and all the hair mixes together nicely.
Once Emma was done and had set her hair in the rollers, she covered it with a portable hood dryer that was attached to a hair dryer. We then all went off and did it ourselves on our block heads.

I started off by giving my block head a spritz with water all over, i made it damp but not wet so that it would have enough time to dry. I then split the parting into a middle parting at the front. Once this was done I put 2 rollers in the front on either side of the parting. I then began at the middle of the back of the head and set rollers in a line around the top. Then using this line as my starting point, beginning at the back again i put another line of rollers in in the middle of two of the top rollers in a brick set. I continued this until all the hair was set in rollers. All the time i was taking my sections i was giving them a little spritz with water just to dampen them.  I then got a hair dryer and hood cover and attached it to the block head to dry the hair. Once everyone had finished putting the rollers in and had their hair drying Emma gathered us around again to show us how to dress out the curlers once dry.

She took out rollers from the bottom of the back first and brushed them out and then using her fingers and comb she rested them in a way that she thought they fell and looked nice. She continued this for the whole head and then styled it slightly. It was a waved and natural looking hair style.

Once my head had dryed I dressed out the rollers and had quite a lot of tight curls which i ran my fingers through to seperate and make into lots of smaller curls. I then dressed this up to the best of my ability in a half-up-half-down style.


























Difficulties
Going into the lesson was a bit daunting as i knew i'd never been very good at anything to do with hair. I had learnt some roller techniques in period hair lessons however, which gave me a bit of confidence with that aspect. I found it quite a bit more difficult setting the rollers with the wire and netted rollers as i found that they were much more fiddly and the hair kept going straight through rathe than around. However, as i put more and more in i began to get more confident and found it abit easier as i went on. I still find brick setting sometimes abit hard and i think this is because im still not quite taking the right sized sections which is slightly throwing off the set. I feel that this will improve with practice and time.

My definite struggle and difficulty is dressing out hair. I find it very difficult to style hair how i want it and always seem to get bumps or bits that dont stay or stray bits of hairs. I also alwas seem to set hair very loose in updos rather than when i want them tight and to stay in place. I think again this is due in inexperience and will get better with time but the styling and dressing out is definitely my weakest point. However, because i know this i now practice different styles and getting used to manipulating hair in my spare time at home and on friends. I definitely feel like i need to be more firm with it and think about it more technically and take more time in order to achieve the look that i want.


Equipment
To do this look i used:

- Rollers - I used these to create the waves and curls that i wanted for my look.
- Pins and grips - I used these to style the look once I dressed it out, to pin hair into place.
- Sprayer with water - I used this to wet the sections of hair before putting the rollers in.
- Hair dryer & Hood - I used this to dry the hair and set the rollers before dressing it out.
- Pin Comb - I used this to section the hair into the amount that i needed for each roller.
- Denman hair brush - I used this to brush the hair
- Paddle brush - I used this to brush the hair.
- Block head and clamp - I used these as my 'model' and to keep the block head in place.


(Pictures to follow)