Lesson 2 Current Trends Makeup
Contour (Highlight and Shade)
In our second current trends makeup lesson with Branka, she showed us how to do 2 different contour looks. A more natural, dewy contour and the 'Kim Kardashian' look. She demonstrated how
to do both looks on either side of model: Brittany Cason's face.
The first look on the left side of Brittany's face was a more natural and dewy contour look. to do both looks on either side of model: Brittany Cason's face.
Firstly, Branka prepped the skin with oil and moisturiser. She used oil in the areaas that would need extra moisture such as around the nose, between the brows and on the chin. She then went in with Steam Cream moisturiser all over Brittany's face. Branka explained that whilst she was moisturising Brittany's skin, she was looking at the natural colours, shades and undertones in her skin to begin to have an idea of what colours she should be using. She then used Carmex on her lips to make sure that they werent dry or chapped when it came to putting lipstick on. Branka explained that when you have a male client, you should always use matte moisturisers and lip creams as you do not want to give them a dewy effect.
Once Brittany's skin was prepped and moisturised, Branka used Derma Cover in D3, D7 and D32 mixed together to create a concealer. She applied this under Brittany's eyes and on any blemishes or areas that needed colour correcting. She then used a round fluffy brush to buff it out leaving no harsh lines and creating a natural look. Once Branka was happy with this, she used Mac Face and Body Foundation in C1 and worked it into her hand to warm it up before working it in all over the left side of her face. She used circular motions to buff it into the skin and create a flawless yet natural finish.
After this, Branka demonstrated how to create the right tones for highlighting and shading. She used Grease Palettes to create a lighter tone, using a small amount of white and mixing in some of the foundation colour. After she had made the highlighter colour, Branka created the contour colour, she explained that whilst keeping to the natural tones of the skin, you also want to have a slightly grey undertone and this will give the effect of shadowing. She used a small amount of grey, beige, brown, yellow and red and mixed the colours together, adding in when needed until she created the right colour. This should be about 4-5 shades up from the natural skin colour however kept quite cool rather than warm.
Once these colours were created, Branka demonstrated where you should highlight and where you should contour. Every element of the face that you want to bring out and add focus to you highlight, for example, brown bone, under the eyes, nose and cheeks. Everything you want to take back and add depth to you shade, for example, cheek bones, forehead, jawline and nose.
Starting with the highlighter, add lines to where you want it to be although try to not be to heavy with it, you can always build it up later if you need to. Using the same brush, Branka added shading to the areas she wanted to contour, these areas were: top of the ear towards the mouth in the shape of an isosceles triangle, between the temple and the hairline (Branka explained that if you could fit 1 finger in the gap you would just highlight, if you could fit 2 fingers you would do highlight and shading and if you could fit 3 fingers you do just shading) and then on the nose. Blending the highlight first, Branka used small strokes and circles as she wanted it to be noticeable but not heavy. Once she was happy with the highlight, she blended upwards to get rid of any excess product or lines.
She then began buffing in the shading using the same techniques. Around the eyes and nose, Branka used a concealer buffing brush instead so that she had more control over where the shading was going and could reach the odd angles and corners. Once she was happy with the end result, Branka used her ring finger to add some strobe cream over the areas that she put the highlighter and buffed and dabbed it in lightly.
To finish the look, Branka brushed the eyebrows up and added a little bit of filling with an eyebrow pencil that was only a slightly darker shade than Brittany's natural brow colour. She used a little bit of 'Please Me' and 'Twig' blushers to the cheeks and then added a makeup setting spray just to give a lightly more dewy effect.
Branka then moved onto the 'Kim Kardashian' style look on the right side of Brittany's face. She put the same base on as before (see above) and then began mixing up her colours for the highlight and shades. She mixed white greasepaint with a light foundation tone and using a concealer brush she applied the highlight to the areas that she wanted to highlight (around the eyes, down the nose, forehead, cheeks and chin). Branka then created a highlight tone a shade up from the first one and applied that around and slightly above the first application of highlighter. Once this was done Branka created a tone for shading using the darkest foundation NC32. She applied this in areas that she wanted shading (cheekbones, jawline, nose, forehead). Once this was all done, Branka began buffing it in starting with the highlighter and moving down to the darkest shade. She very lightly set it with powder and explained if the finished look was too dark you can lighten it with a powder.
Branka than used the Mac sculpting powder over everywhere that she had already shaded she then went in with 'Emphasize' onto the highlight. To finish the look, Branka used the Mac blush 'Dolly Mix' on the cheeks and applied strobe cream on the areas that were highlighted.
I then went on the recreate the look on Brittany myself.
Pros
I already had experience with highlighting and shading on myself and other clients so I was quite confident when I went in to recreate the look. I was very happy with the colours I chose and mixed up for Brittany's skin tone and I was also very happy with the placement of it.
I found it easy to use the techniques that Branka was showing us and was very confident when applying it. I was also very happy with how it blended.
Cons
I feel like I need to practice more with a heavier contour as I am used to applying quite a natural and light one therefore I feel like I did not get the desired affect for the 'Kim Kardashian' look. This is something I will continue to practice in class and in my spare time at home.
Health and Safety
1. Make sure all brushes, products and equipment are cleaned properly ready to use on the models skin so as not to spread any contraindications or diseases.
2. Make sure the model isn't allergic to any products that I was using before beginning the look so as not to cause and allergic reaction.
3. Make sure my hands are washed and clean before starting the look.
4. Make sure my hair is away from my face.
5. Make sure I dont have any excessive jewellery on that could catch, cut or scratch my model.
6. Make sure all my products are layed out properly and neatly so as not to cause a hazard.
7. Ensure there is nothing on the floor that can be tripped or fallen over and all bags and coats are away.
8. Make sure I am wearing shoes with a closed toe so as if anything is dropped it doesn't cause damage to the toes.
- Mac Face and Body - Shade C1 - I used the Mac Face and Body Foundation as this gives a very natural finish, however the coverage is only light so it needed to be built up to create the desired look i wanted to achieve.
- Dermacolour - Shades D32, D1, D6 and D7 - I used these shades mixed together to blend over blemishes and under the eyes to give a flawless finish.
- Mac Sculpting Powder - I used this to do the highlight and shading. I find it really nice to use a powder to highlight and shade as it gives a very natural finish, it is easily blended and you can build it it up to the amount that you want.
- Kyrolan Supracolour Pallette - I used this to create the highlight and shade on the other side of Brittany's face. I found it quite heavy to use and quite thick. I feel like this was a good product to use for the look I was going for but I wouldnt use this as an every day product as it doesnt give a natural finish and can sometimes look cakey.
- Ben Nye Loose White Powder - I used this to set over the makeup I had done, especially under the eyes, to make sure that it stayed where it was and didnt move around the face creating a greasy, sweaty look.
-Mac Strobe Cream - I used this to go over the areas that I had highlighted to draw light to the area and give an even more highlighted look. It also created a natural, dewy finish on my model.
-Mac Brow Gel - I used this to set and shape the models brows as to how i wanted them.
-Mac Fix + Setting Spray - I used this to create a dewy/wet look over my model.
- Mac Blusher - Shade: Dolly Mix - I used the blusher on the cheeks to add a bit of colour and finish the look.
(Photos to follow)
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