Tuesday, 1 December 2015

Current Trends Makeup - Lesson 5 - Classic Red - Ombre - Glitter Lips

Flick Liner with Clear Skin - Red, Ombre and Glitter Lip 

Health and Safety
1. Make sure all brushes, products and equipment are cleaned properly ready to use on the models skin so as not to spread any contraindications or diseases. 
2. Make sure the model isn't allergic to any products that I was using before beginning the look so as not to cause and allergic reaction.
3. Make sure my hands are washed and clean before starting the look.
4. Make sure my hair is away from my face.
5. Make sure I dont have any excessive jewellery on that could catch, cut or scratch my model. 
6. Make sure all my products are layed out properly and neatly so as not to cause a hazard. 
7. Ensure there is nothing on the floor that can be tripped or fallen over and all bags and coats are away. 
8. Make sure I am wearing shoes with a closed toe so as if anything is dropped it doesn't cause damage to the toes.

Demonstration

In our current trends makeup lesson 5, Branka demonstrated how to create a look using a basic flick liner and a number of different lip styles. 
She used Rebecca Krassismenou as her model.
Starting with prepping the skin, Branka used Argan Oil and moisturiser to add moisture to the dry areas of Rebecca's skin. Once this was done she moved onto the base.
Using the Naked Urban Decay Demi Finish medium coverage foundation in shades 5 and 7 (neutral tones) she mixed up a colour to match Rebecca's skin tone and the applied this to the face, starting in the middle and buffing outwards.
Next Branka used a bronzed illuminator to add a shimmer and tan to areas of Rebecca's face that would naturally catch the sun, e.g. the forehead, nose, cheekbones.
Moving onto highlighting, Branka used Topshop Gleam which is a soft bronze that works as a highlighter on medium to dark skin tones. She added this over the top of the areas that she had just added the illuminator.
Once Branka was happy with this, she used Urban Decay Concealer in medium to conceal under Rebecca's eyes and then buffed this out so as there were no harsh lines or obvious marks. She also applied this all over the lid and buffed it in. Applying a slightly darker to the corner of the eye she also buffed this in. Branka explained this was to neutralise an area that was slightly darker.
Branka then powdered under Rebecca's eyes to keep the makeup from moving.

Starting on the eyes, Branka went in with Mac Brule all over the base. She then applied Mac Taupe using a fluffy eyeshadow brush from the outside crease, half way into the base in a circular shape to create shading affect on the lid.

Moving onto the eyebrows, Branka applied Mac Brow gel to the brow to ensure that the eyeshadow would stick when filled in, whilst she did this she also brushed the eyebrows into shape with the applicator. Using a dark brown eyeshadow, Branka filled in Rebecca's eyebrows working towards the arched shape. She then applied another small layer of brow gel on top to set.

For the eyeliner, Branka used black aquacolour. She added a small spritz of water to the aquacolour palette and then mixed a small amount onto the back of her hand. She created a consistency that was quite thick and not too wet, it resemble a liquid eyeliner. Lifting the brow, Branka started in the middle of the eye and drew a straight line to the outside edge stopping there. Asking Rebecca to look left, she did a clean line from the inside corner of the eye to meet the middle where she had started the liner. Lifting the brow, Branka created the flick from the outside corner of the eye going towards the eyebrow in an upwards, sweeping motion. She lifted the brush at the end to create the tapered and thinning style. The flick was medium length, She then applied mascara with a fan brush to the upper and lower lashes.

Once the eyes were finished, Branka started the lips. Starting with lip liner in Mac Ruby Woo, Branka explained to look at the lip shape, looking out for a defined cupids bow and the balance between bottom and top lip shapes. Starting at the cupids bow, she lined with the Ruby Woo Lip Pencil. She then moved to the middle of the bottom lip and lined just the middle. Using small feathery strokes, Branka lined the lips from the outside corners to finish the lines. Asking Rebecca to open her mouth, she then lined the inner corners of the lips. Then working from the outside corner of the lips, Branka over drew slightly too add balance. Then, using a round brush, Branka applied Mac Ruby Woo Lipstick all over the lips inside the liner and onto of the liner not going over the lines. After this was done, Branka applied Kaylin Liquid Lipstick in Classic Cherry Red, starting in the centre and feathering out to the edges. Using concealer half a shade lighter than the natural skin colour, Branka used a flat brush to apply a highlighted line around the lips.

To finish the look Branka applied eyelashes to Rebecca's eyes and Illamasqua Liquid Metal, Liquid Gold highlighter to the corners of the eye and a small amount ontop of the top lip.

Ombre Lip 

Using Mac Ebony eyeliner pencil, Branka applied this exactly where she had originally put the Ruby Woo Lip Liner. Asking Rebecca to open her mouth, Branka used the eyeliner pencil to colour in from the corner of the mouth to a quarter of the way along the look and out to the edges. Then, using the same lip brush used to apply the red lipsticks, Branka feathered this on top of the black liner to soften the line. Going back in with the black again this time doing a thin black liner along the edges. Once again smudging the line slightly to soften it.


Glitter Lip 

Dabbing a thin layer of vaseline onto the lips, Branka then spritz her finger with Mac Fix + and dipped it into red glitter. She then dabbed this onto the lip. She used masking tape around the area to lift any glitter from unwanted areas not on the lip.



















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