Full Look with Grease Paints
Current Trends Makeup - Lesson 3
Health and Safety
1. Make sure all brushes, products and equipment are cleaned properly ready to use on the models skin so as not to spread any contraindications or diseases.
2. Make sure the model isn't allergic to any products that I was using before beginning the look so as not to cause and allergic reaction.
3. Make sure my hands are washed and clean before starting the look.
4. Make sure my hair is away from my face.
5. Make sure I dont have any excessive jewellery on that could catch, cut or scratch my model.
6. Make sure all my products are layed out properly and neatly so as not to cause a hazard.
7. Ensure there is nothing on the floor that can be tripped or fallen over and all bags and coats are away.
8. Make sure I am wearing shoes with a closed toe so as if anything is dropped it doesn't cause damage to the toes.
Full Face with Grease Paints
For this lesson, Branka wanted to show us how to do a full face using just our grease paint palettes, incase we ever found ourselves at a job needing to do makeup without our full makeup kit. She explained that it shouldnt be used in the place of makeup and only in emergency situations!
She started by demonstrating how to do this. First she moisturised Heather's (model) face and applied a Lush Sugar Scrub Lip Balm to her lips to make sure the face was ready for the products. After this she began to mix up the colours for heathers base colour. She used Kryolan Greasepaint and mixed up Beige, Mango, Red, Medium Brown, Dark Brown, Yellow White and a touch of blue. She kept mixing between these colours until she found a match for heathers skin tone. She used a foundation brush to apply the her face starting from the middle and working out. She then used a buffing brush to buff out any lines from the foundation brush and to make sure the product was soft and even over Heathers face. She blended into the neck aswell.
Once she was happy with the base, Branka used red and mauve to make a similar colour to the dermacolour d32 and mixed that with some of the left over base colour. She applied this under the eyes with a flat concealer brush and then once the colours was applied, buffed it out with a medium round fluffy brush. Branka then set the foundation with Translucent Powder. She applied this quite heavy in order for the greasepaint not to move around the face.
Moving on to highlight and shading, Branka said to split the rest of the base colour on her hand into 2 different lots, She then used red, grey and medium brown greasepaints mixed with one half of the base colour to create a colour for the shading and used a white greasepaint mixed with the other half of the base colour to create a highlight colour. Once these were made. Branka applied highlight first to the forehead, around the eyes, under the cheekbone and on the nose. She then applied the shade colour she had made to the forehead, cheekbone, nose and chin. Once these colours were applied, she used a buffing brush to blend the colours into the base ensuring that it had a natural look, there were no harsh lines and no blocks of colour. She explained not to spread the colour around but to dab it as spreading would cause it to mix with the base colour and not shade and highlight in the areas wanted. Once this was blended and even, Branka used powder to set it again this time a slightly lighter/finer layer.
Now it was time to create the eyeshadow. Branka used Medium Brown and Beige mixed together and applied it to the socket with a small buffing brush and buffed irt out into the crease. With a smaller, flat brush, Branka applied black (although she said we can use dark brown) to the lash line and then smudged it away so that it wasnt a harsh line. She did this to the top and bottom lash line. Once this was done, she applied a little more black only half way on the top lash line just to layer it up slightly. She then set the eyes with powder. To finish the eyes off, Branka used a small bit of dark brown, grey and beige and worked into the hand. She then applied a light layer over Heeather's eyebrow and shaped them. She then set with powder. Lastly, using a small fan brush, Branka applied mascara to the top and bottom lashes.
Next, Branka moved onto blush and lips. She mixed red, burgundy, yellow and peach together and created a medium pink tone. She buffed this into the cheeks only until the point where there was a wash of colour. She set this with powder. To create the colour for the lips, Branka used the burgundy tone and buffed it into the brush on her hand. She told us to define the lip with the colour without overdoing it or over drawing the lip line.
To finish the whole look, Branka sprayed Heather's face with a Spritz of Mac Fix +. I then went to repeat this on my model (name).
Advantages
I found it quite easy to use the greasepaints to create a full look. I found the consistency easy to work with, although very heavy, and felt like it was easy to buff and spread over the face once it was warmed. I am really happy with the outcome of the look and actually found it to be quite natural at the end and worked really well with the models skin.
Disadvantages
Although i found the greasepaints easy to work with, i wouldn't use it all the time to create look and like Branka said only as an emergency resort. I feel like as the name suggests it was quite greasy and looked quite cakey and heavy at times. I also feel like it wouldnt be brilliant for the skin of the model and it didnt really leave any room for it to breathe. I also think i went slightly too heavy with the eyes and could have used the dark brown, rather than black to create a softer look. I also had an issue with my burgundy greasepaint in the fact that it came out a different colour to everyone elses and i wasnt able to create a pinky tone from it. Therefore, my blush and lips were slightly browner and darker.
Products used
Mac Fix + - I used this at the end to give a dewy and more natural look to the quite heavy makeup.
Kryolan Greasepaints Supra Colour Palette - Red, White, Burgundy, Black, Medium Brown, Beige, Yellow, Blue, Peach, Mango - I used this palette to create to whole look. I found it quite a good consistency when warmed up and it buffed and blended really nicely into the skin.
Mac False Lash Effect Mascara - Covers the lashes well when put on with a fan brush, isnt clumpy and holds really nicely.
Ben Nye White Powder - I used this to set the face to keep the makeup from moving around especially under the eyes. It works really well and the white powder works the same as a translucent powder as not to add any colour to the skin.
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