Lesson 4 - Smokey Eye
Unfortunately the day this lesson took place I was unwell and didn't attend. However I have taken notes from Heather Shotbolt's Blog - http://hjsartistry.blogspot.co.uk/, in order to understand the process and recreate the look at home.
To prep the model, Branka quickly moisturised and added some oil to the dry areas of the skin so that it was ready for the makeup. Once this was done, Branka began working on the eye. This was so that it could be done cleanly without any droppage onto the cheeks once the base had been applied. The first step was to apply Mac Black Track gel eyeliner over the whole eyelid using a flat brush. She didnt take this any higher than the socket line. Once this was done, she used a fluffy brush to blend the Black Track out to ensure that the eye had a 'smokey' effect rather than a black block on her eyelid. Once this was blended nicely and there were no harsh lines, Branka applied some more black track onto the lash line and used Carbon eyeshadow from Mac over the lid, once again only working up to the crease and not over. Next, Branka used Brule eyeshadow from Mac and applied it from the crease up to the brow bone to create a nice transition and blend between colours. She buffed this into the eye with a circular motion to ensure there were no harsh lines and so the blend was nice. She then used Cork eyeshadow by Mac to blend out the line of the black track to give it a softer, smokey appearance. Next she applied Brun eyeshadow from Mac slightly over the black eyeshadow and Cork eyeshadow to blend out between the two tones. This created a graduated colour and tone between them. She then removed any droppage from the face before beginning the base.
Branka created a colour for the base for her model. She used Mac Full Coverage Foundation. Once the base was applied to the model. Branka created a colour to used as a highlighter. She used Mac Full Coverage foundation in the shade NC15 and applied this to the areas that she wanted to highlight.These were, cheekbones, around the brow, down the nose, chin and jawline. Once this was applied to the skin, Branka created a colour for the medium tone. This was also Mac Full Coverage Foundation in a mixture of shades NC15 and NW25. She applied this to areas that she wanted to neutralize but not quite as dark as a shade you would use to completely contour and shadow. She applied this next to wear she had applied the highlighter on the cheekbone, nose, chin and jawline. Once this was done, Branka then created a colour to use for the shading. She once again used Mac Full Coverage in the shade NW35. This was applied to areas of the face that she wanted to add shade and draw in. These areas are, under the cheekbones, the nose, the temples, and the jawline. Once all this was applied to the face. Branka blended it in to ensure that it was subtle, no harsh lines or brush marks and so the whole look had a natural effect to it rather than blocks of colour. She began buffing in the highlighter and worked her way onto the medium tone and then the dark shades. Once this was done, Branka lightly set the makeup with a translucent powder to ensure that the makeup didnt move around the face.
Once this was done, Branka brushed the eyebrow upwards and applied Mac Brow Gel to allow the colour to stick to the brow better when shading and colouring in. Once this was done, Branka used Carbon eyeshadow from Mac under the bottom lash line and blended it out. She then applied black mascara to the lashes using a small fan brush to add definition to the eye.
To create a naturally sunkissed and bronzed look, Branka used Yves Saint Laurent No.2 in areas where light hits your face, so cheekbones, forehead and nose. She also applied Mac Strobe Cream to the areas where she wanted slightly more highlight over the areas that she had used the highlight colour before.
Once this was done Branka moved onto the lips to finish the look. She used Naked Lip liner from Mac to line the lips so that they were defined and shaped ready for the lipstick. She then filled this with Plum from Mac. She mixed this with some of the foundation colour that was left on her hand so that it created a more natural lip colour rather than a harsh one. To finish, Clear Lip Glass from Mac was added on top.
This was this looked finished.
However, Branka then went on the demonstrate how this look could quickly be transformed into a high fashion look. She used vasoline over the eye to create a wet look. This also enhanced the black colour to make it stand out even more.
I recreated this look at home on model: Hollie Duff, Makeup & Photo: Aimee Topham
(ALL CREDITS TO HEATHER SHOTBOLT FOR INFORMATION)
Health and Safety
1. Make sure all brushes, products and equipment are cleaned properly ready to use on the models skin so as not to spread any contraindications or diseases.
2. Make sure the model isn't allergic to any products that I was using before beginning the look so as not to cause and allergic reaction.
3. Make sure my hands are washed and clean before starting the look.
4. Make sure my hair is away from my face.
5. Make sure I dont have any excessive jewellery on that could catch, cut or scratch my model.
6. Make sure all my products are layed out properly and neatly so as not to cause a hazard.
7. Ensure there is nothing on the floor that can be tripped or fallen over and all bags and coats are away.
8. Make sure I am wearing shoes with a closed toe so as if anything is dropped it doesn't cause damage to the toes.
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